How To Do A Provisional Cast-On (Loom) Like A Pro!

Provisional cast-ons/bind-offs keep your stitches "live" so that you can work them together seamlessly later. They are useful for flat loom knitting or "in the round". This method does not require knitting needles which will make a lot of loom knitters happy. The final result will look like a kitchener cast-on. Use the provisional cast-on for joining ends to live stitches or picked up stitches on the side of your knitting. 

This cast-on works the same in the round or flat. If your piece is worked in the round, you will just flatten your knitting and half your stitches. You can use stitch markers to mark the halfway points on each side of the knitting where the waste yarn meets the elastic or project yarn. For demonstration purposes, this tutorial assumes that you know how to cast-on and do the knit stitch.

Why do you do a provisional cast-on? This cast on is useful for joining pieces of your knitting seamlessly. This is useful in loom knitting since we do not always have enough stitches to do wide pieces such as a drapey cowl. If you don't have a large round loom you could loom knit your cowl flat (instead of in the round) and then join your pieces seamlessly. It's also great for starting socks, just cast-on using waste yarn/elastic cord and your stitches will remain "live" for seaming later. I also use this cast-on for ponchos and other garments.

Also included in this tutorial is how to join two pieces together without using knitting needles after doing this cast-on and notes on how to provisionally bind-off.

This cast-on will produce a seamless join similar to kitchener.

Elastic thread is useful but not absolutely necessary.

Top right:  Waste yarn is shown in white, then 1-row elastic cord was knit and the salmon-colored yarn represents the project yarn. On the left the yarn colors were reversed so that the viewer can better see the join.

Follow the steps in this section for all provisional cast-ons, flat or in the round...This tutorial is not designed to teach you how to loom knit so the actual knitting process is not shown on the loom. You should already know how to e-wrap cast-on and do the regular (true) knit stitch before attempting this cast-on. 

1. Referring to the photo above:  e-wrap cast on with waste yarn. Waste yarn can be used over and over again and should be a contrasting color to your pattern yarn. This will make it easier to see which is which.
2. Knit at least 10 rows or rounds using waste yarn. Use the regular knit stitch (also called true knit). E-wrap knit stitch is not recommended for this cast-on. You may knit as many rows/rnds as you like with the waste yarn just make sure you give yourself enough fabric to work with.
3. Knit 1 row with elastic cord. If you do not have elastic cord then skip this step. Elastic cord is just easier to pull out because it is slippery but regular yarn can be encouraged out of the knitting also (it just takes a little longer).
4. Cut your waste yarn/elastic, leaving a 4 to 5 inch tail.
5. Work (loom knit) your pattern as stated. You won't seam until your pattern is completed. Above is just a sample.

THIS IS THE END OF THE PROVISIONAL CAST-ON TUTORIAL. BELOW IS HOW TO JOIN TWO SECTIONS AFTER USING THIS CAST-ON. 

Note:  You can also bind off using a provisional bind-off. Just do the steps in reverse. When you finish your pattern, do not bind off in the regular manner...1st loom knit 1 row with elastic cord, then loom knit 10 rows (at least) with waste yarn, then bind off or remove the fabric from the loom.

How to join (after pattern is complete)...

The above picture is only an example as this tutorial is showing your two pieces, each with a provisional cast-on/bind off, being joined. You may be joining a side with a provisional cast-on to a side with a closed cast-on. Work them the same. If you have a closed cast on (on one side) then just pick up the edge stitches one by one.

Elastic cord was not used in the example below.

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Nicole F. Cox

Common Myths In Loom Knitting!

Every day I get similar questions asking me "what brand loom did you use?", "my hat doesn't fit, why?", "can I change the stitch, the u-knit is too tight?", "you can do that on a loom?", etc. Today I'm going to answer some of these questions and more. More questions? Feel free to ask them in the comments section of this post and I'll do my best to answer them. Disagree with me? Let me know, I love hearing your opinions.

The Loom Brand Matters

Myth. Although all loom knitters have their preference of looms, the brand of the loom does not affect the outcome of the project. When doing a pattern it's the gauge or peg spacing of the loom that matters. All things equal, using the same gauge of loom as used in the pattern sample should give you the same result. Also, pay attention to whether you will be knitting in the round or double knitting such as on a rake.

The brand doesn't matter except to the manufacturer. Needle knitting pattern designers do not write their patterns for specific needle brands (unless they represent that brand), just sizes/gauges. Don't get hung up on having the exact loom. If you meet gauge and have the right amount of stitches your pattern will turn out. As I've said before, the math doesn't lie.

It's fine to prefer certain loom brands (I do!), just don't spend money to do one pattern if you already have the same gauge loom in your stash.

Same knitting tension + peg spacing + yarn = Same Results

Round looms are only for hats and knitting "in the round"

Myth. Round looms are the most versatile looms as you can knit flat panels on them or knit "in the round". A round loom is not just for knitting in the round.

If the round loom is an "adult" hat loom, the finished hat will fit all adults

Myth. The circumference of the loom is just a starting point for sizing. The stitch + yarn used + knitting tension will all affect the sizing of your hat. Some stitches are so loose that you will need to use a "child's" size loom for an adult and other stitches have so much tension that an extra large loom will be needed to knit the same size hat. The only way to be sure is to knit a sample swatch. See the gauge link below for information on gauging your loom knits. It's also important to realize that you can use the same stitch and yarn as another loomer but still end up with a different size hat due to how tight or loose you make your stitches.

Plastic "cheaper" looms are beginner looms

Myth. The material used to make a loom might be a loomers' preference but does not determine the ability or skills of the knitter. I'm a proficient loom knitter and still use my plastic looms daily to do everything from chunky knits to delicate Japanese lace.

If you are new to loom knitting, it is recommended that you choose a cheaper loom set to start until you determine if you like the fiber art and what you do and don't like in a loom.

It's hard to learn how to read a loom/needle knitting pattern, videos are easier.

Myth. This is only true in the short term. These days with the availability of YouTube videos, there is not a day that goes by that I'm not requested to do a video for a pattern. The pressure for videos is intense. I actually am of the belief that videos are making it harder for knitters to learn the language of knitting. When you watch someone do something and mimic those movements you really don't learn the process as well as if you were working through the pattern on your own. It's no different than driving somewhere on your own or having someone pointing out directions to you in the car...did you really learn the way to the destination? Think about it. Sometimes yes, sometimes no. It depends on the level of engagement.  

Pattern videos keep you dependant on others to show you how to do everything. Learning the abbreviations in loom knitting/knitting gives you the freedom to try new things as you will recognize and be able to read the patterns. Designers like myself that use needle knitting terms, to the extent possible, do that so that you can easily convert and read regular knitting patterns. I don't want you to be dependant on me, I want you to have the knowledge to explore everything this fiber art has to offer. 

Take a little time to memorize and learn the movements and abbreviations used in loom/needle knitting and I guarantee you that you will spend a lot less time being confused and seeking out videos. You will be able to go from pattern to pattern with no need for a video.  If you believe yourself to be a "visual" learner than use the videos to learn a movement and abbreviation than follow the written patterns using that knowledge. This will actually speed up your learning and the loom knitting process. Using the video as a tool in conjunction with pattern reading becomes a win, win. 

There are 30,600,000 results on Google for knitting patterns (my last search), only a small handful of these are available on video. Only doing videos greatly limits what you can do on the loom. Learning how to read a pattern gives you access to almost all of them, both loom knitting patterns and needle knitting patterns. Wow, Now that's a great reason to learn how to read a pattern!


Do you really have ONE learning style? The research says no.

The e-wrap knit stitch (twisted stockinette) is easier than the knit stitches (stockinette)

Myth. Most loom knitters find the e-wrap knit (ewk) easier because it was the first stitch they learned and are most comfortable with it. Also, I believe loom knitters become enamored with the ewk because it grows faster than regular stockinette because it is a looser stitch. The same number of rows and stitches will give you almost double the size of the u-knit stitch. The e-wrap knit is faster but not easier.

It is no easier to fully wrap a peg for an e-wrap knit stitch than to half wrap a peg for a u-knit stitch. If you can do a purl stitch than the regular knit is just the opposite of that. The flat knit is as easy as it gets as no wrapping is required (although this stitch has lots of tension, causing it to tighten if not being careful and using appropriate yarn). Find out about the knit stitches here!

U-knit stitches are tight

Nope. If your u-knit stitches are getting tight then you are using too tight of a tension or you are pulling on your yarn creating a flat knit. You must make the U behind the peg, knit the stitch and then move onto the next peg but do not yank on the yarn. If you pull on the yarn, you instantly turn your U-knit into a flat knit (much tighter tension). Knit stitches on the loom

You can't knit large cables on the loom

Myth. Yes, you can! We must use different methods to do the large cables and all of our cables look a little different than needle knitting but we can make large cables using looms. Click here to find out how to do a 6-stitch cable. You can also find even larger cables being done on the loom by doing an internet search.

Fair Isle is not suitable for the loom

Myth. Fair Isle is perfectly suited to the loom as we have a clear visual reference for our stitches so placement of the colors is manageable. It's also easy to handle the floats once you learn how. Click here to find out how

Loom knitting is limited to hats, scarves and easy stuff. "I didn't know you could make "THAT" on a loom!"

Myth. Almost any needle or machine knitted item can be made on the loom. Sometimes we must develop different methods and techniques but most knits can be done on the loom from colorwork to lace and beyond. Don't limit yourself as a loom knitter, you can do all of the needle/machine knits.

The e-wrap knit stitch is Stockinette Stitch

No. It is twisted stockinette and produces a "dropped V" not the neat V stitch of Stockinette. It is also a much more meshy, open stitch then traditional Stockinette due to the twist producing extra stitch length. It is important to know the differences between the two and their uses.

Stockinette stitch (k) has crisper edges and neat rows making it perfect for Fair Isle, duplicate stitch, and other colorwork.  Fair Isle worked in e-wrap knit (twisted stockinette) will have a more "mottled" appearance, due to the stitches natural squiggly texture and will not look like traditional Fair Isle. If you want a more "open", loose stitch then e-wrap knit will give you that.

The e-wrap knit is the most common stitch associated to "loom knits". Although you don't commonly see this stitch in needle knitting, it can be done on the needles too. 

e-wrap knit stitch (ewk), looser and less tailored stitch.

Stockinette Stitch (K), tighter & more organized/tailored stitch.

Moving stitches around to do lace on the loom is just too "hard"

Myth. It shouldn't be hard at all. If it is for you, then you need to knit looser. Most problems with stitch movement come from knitting with too tight a tension. Practice knitting with a looser tension before attempting lace patterns. Like anything, lace just requires a little practice. Using an elastic type yarn, such as wool, can also make moving the stitches easier. Knitting a sample/gauge swatch in the pattern stitch will help you work out the tension needed for the given stitch.

Needle knitting is "real" knitting

Yes, this is true, but so is loom knitting and machine knitting. All are worthy of the fiber arts and produce similar fabric. 

Loom knitting is cheating

Myth. I've had countless people say this to me. I hand them my loom and say "show me how to cheat", they all look at me like I'm crazy because they have no idea how to use it. Each and every stitch is worked by the loom knitter, just like in needle knitting. There's no cheating involved.

All wool is "itchy"

Myth. Not all wool is created equal, some wool is quite soft. If you've been sensitive to wool in the past, try high-quality Merino Wool (it has a long fiber) as it is rated as the softest. Not all Merino wool is high-quality so research the brand before buying. Before knitting with a wool, place a piece against your neck or wrist (and wear it for a bit) to check for softness. Wools blended with silk and other soft fibers are also a good choice. Wools marketed for babies are also a good place to start as these should be bred/processed for sensitive skin.

You are most likely not "allergic" to wool (this is rare) just because you find it "itchy", more than likely the chosen wool is just coarse with a short fiber causing a skin sensitivity. Shorter fibers tend to stick out and feel prickly, use coarser wools for totes, crafts and felting projects that will not touch the skin.

Besides the staple length, for softness, it matters how the wool was spun/processed, woolen or worsted. Woolen yarns do not arrange the yarn, leaving short and long staples somewhat haphazardly arranged. The shorter fibers that stick out can prickle the skin more. 

Gauge doesn't matter in loom knitting

Myth. Yes, it does, your gauge or "knitting tension" matters and will always affect the size of your finished project. Learn about gauge here. Some projects will not require accurate gauge but things that need to "fit" will.

Common Slang words/sayings used in loom knitting (that really don't make sense but we've all used them anyway) All very confusing to the beginner (and me too!).

"knit off"/Instead of knit the row - You can't "knit off" the loom (and would you want to?), any knit stitch leaves a stitch remaining on the loom. Example; I get a lot of questions asking me if they are to "knit off" a row in one of my patterns. I'm never sure if the loomer is asking me if they are to bind off or knit the row so it also confuses me when this terminology is used.
"e-wrap" as a stitch - The e-wrap is just as it states... a wrap. It is not, in and of itself, a stitch. It becomes a stitch when the word knit is added, e-wrap knit (ewk). The term e-wrap should mean to wrap the peg in an e-wrap fashion. Why does it becomes confusing? Here's just one example; In a wrap & turn, you are asked to e-wrap the peg, if the loomer believes that e-wrap is a knit stitch then they might ewk this peg as opposed to e-wrapping the peg without knitting it.

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Nicole F. Cox

How To Block Your Knitting, The Easy Way!

Do I have to block my knitting really?? The answer is...most of the time if you want them to look their best! You've put hours of love into your loom or needle piece, it's worth the extra hour to give it that final wow. This post will hopefully take the mystery out of blocking and encourage you to make your knits look their absolute best! I'm positive that once you see how beautiful your knits are after blocking, you'll be as addicted to it as I am.

What's blocking?

Blocking is the process of wetting fibers and gently reshaping them to the desired measurements.

Why do I want to block my knitting?

Blocking is used to shape a garment, help it lay flat and straighten out your stitches so that they look neater. It gives your knits a professional, finished look. Have you ever wondered why professional knitters stitches always look straighter and their edges are neat and crisp? It's because they took the time to block their finished projects.

Knitted lace and eyelets are particularly responsive to blocking and the stitches will open up, lay flat and reveal the beautiful pattern in the fabric. I always open up my eyelets a little extra with pins to make them "pop".

What types of fibers should be blocked?

All natural fibers, wool, cotton, alpaca, hemp, etc. and blends of these fibers. If it comes from a plant or animal you can block it. Even when natural fibers are blended with acrylics they will benefit from blocking. See below if you are interested in blocking acrylics/synthetics.

Do I have to block my knitting every time I wash it?

Unfortunately yes! Blocking of natural fiber is not permanent and there are even soaks that can shrink an overstretched wool garment back into shape.

Should I block acrylics/synthetics?

I do but this is widely debated. Acrylics are plastics and usually will not respond as well to wet blocking. I have successfully been able to even out my stitches and get a better "lay" of the fabric. For this reason, I often wet block my acrylics to set my stitches and make them appear neater. Try it and see what you think!

You can use moisture and heat (steam) to "kill" an acrylic piece. A "killed" piece will be limp as the fibers have melted together (it's plastic and plastic melts when heated). This method is not reversible and I would proceed with caution. Usually, an iron is set to steam and held inches away from the knitted fabric until you see it begins to lay. Practice with a test swatch before attempting this on a finished object. I'm not a fan of this method as it is easy to ruin the fiber. Use your own judgment.

What tools do I need to start blocking?

The picture below shows the most common tools used when blocking knits...

From Left to Right (See above picture)

1. Plastic bags used to shape and prevent creases forming on the edges of round items like cowls and hats.

2. blocking wires; used for straight edges.

3.  Blocking Pins to hold wires and edges of stitches in the desired shape.

4. Measuring tape or ruler

5. Blocking Mats

6. Sock blockers (can be found in wood, wire or plastic).

How do I get straight edges?

Using blocking wires will help you get straighter edges. The wires are woven through the edge stitches, after soaking/toweling. Blocking pins are then added to gently stretch the knitting to desired dimensions. 

Triangles, arcs, s-curves can all be made using wires.

The wires are taken in and out of all edge stitches.

Continue weaving the wires until you go down the entire length of the knitting. For long projects, you will need several wires.

How do I block odd shapes like cowls, hats and socks?

Using plastic bags or cardboard, cut to shape and then wrapped in plastic wrap like Saran Wrap/Cling Wrap. There are also sock blockers like pictured. These are wonderful for adult socks but not for children's socks. Shape a blocker using plastic bags or plastic coated cardboard for smaller items.

Balloons and small accent pillows (covered in a plastic bag) can also be used to block hats and cowls. Plates are often used to block berets.

A Lace boot sock on sock blocker.

A cowl blocked with plastic bags (to prevent side creases) and pins. The wavy edge has been preserved.

What is the blocking process?

1. Fill up a sink or clean bucket with water. I always use cool water but some use warm. Never use hot water or agitate your natural fibers...they will FELT, and it's irreversible!
2. If you would like to wash your project, use a product like Eucalan. For a new project, I usually just add a teaspoon of gentle fabric softener or hair conditioner.
3. Soak your knitting for 5 to 10 minutes.
4.  Gently squeeze the water out of your knitting.
5. Lay the knitting flat on a thick towel and roll the towel, gently squeezing the excess water out of the knitting. The more water you get out, the faster the knitting will dry.
6. Block using method suitable for your project. 
Note: Be extra careful with ribbing as you want to preserve its' natural springy-ness.

Follow my process as I block lace boot socks...

I filled a clean sink with cool water.

I added the knits and let soak 5-10 minutes.

Then I Added 1 tsp gentle (free and clear) fabric softener.

I rolled the knitting and gently squeezed the excess water out.

I then rolled the knitting in a towel and squeezed the knitting again.

I decided not to use sock blockers for the lace as I didn't want creases along the sides. I lightly stuffed 2 plastic bags in each sock and pinned along sides. I'm not being too precise or overly stretching the knitting as I want to preserve the top ribbing and make sure the socks fit after they dry. I will allow these to dry half to three-quarters of the way then remove them from the blocking material and finish them with a little steam from an iron and a damp towel to protect the wool. Update! This worked perfectly, the lace opened up and the knitting didn't stretch out which is important for socks.

I do every project a little different, shaping it to desired measurements and evening out my stitches. The project usually decides the method used.

Can I steam natural fibers?

Yes, you can achieve excellent finishing results using steam. I usually use this as a finishing method or when I'm in a hurry and need a project to dry faster. There are a couple of ways to steam block

(1) Dampen your knitting using a spray bottle. Place a damp towel over your fiber (not delicates like mohair) and lightly press an iron on the towel allowing the steam to go through the towel. Emphasis on lightly, you aren't trying to iron your work, just steam it. A flat piece is not attractive in knitting. Work quickly and check your project often. 

(2) Pin your piece to an ironing board or thick towel. Hold the iron 1-3 inches away from the fiber and press the steam button while floating over and above your knitting. Proceed in this manner until knitting is completely damp.

Exciting news! If you are looking for the patterns for the knits you see in this blog post, they will be included in my next book tentatively scheduled for Spring 2019. Happy loom knitting-Nicole

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Nicole F. Cox

Finding Color Inspiration For Loom Knitters!

Hello loom knitters and welcome to our color series! This is topic 6, Color Inspiration.

Color is everywhere...it affects our mood, inspires us and makes us feel more creative!

I'm sad to say this is the 6th, and last in a series of blog posts and accompanying videos, pictures/charts discussing different methods of using color in your loom knitting. I've had so much fun writing about this topic and hope you have found these posts helpful. This post is about finding color inspiration.

The series will include

(the current topic is highlighted below)

• Topic 1: Beginners! Simple Colorwork on the loom including, self-striping, variegated yarn, stripes and color changes, vertical and horizontal colorwork (post link)
• Topic 2:  How to fix the jog when knitting stripes!
• Topic 3:  Fair Isle loom knitting
• Topic 4:  Intarsia on the loom
• Topic 5:  Mosaic & Slip Stitch Loom Knitting
• Topic 6:  Finding color inspiration
• All the topics will include pictures/video links, charts where applicable.

Do you wonder why some designers knits look so good and have that instant "wow" factor? 

Besides all the attention to detail, it may just be their color choices. Most designers study color or have a "natural eye" for how colors compliment or contrast each other.

Do you feel that you struggle with choosing colors?

Have no fear, there are ways to cheat if you don't have a "natural eye" for combining colors. You can use the color wheel, explained below, find color inspiration in your environment or look for color boards on sites like Google or Pinterest.

The color wheel explained!

Finding complementary colors

choose a color on the wheel and draw a straight line across from it and that is the colors complement. If you choose the colors next to the complement you will get a more subtle look. This combination can be quite dramatic like white and black. 

Finding Analogeous Colors

These colors are found by choosing a color and then selecting the colors on either side of that color. These colors create monochrematic looks.

Finding triad Colors

Find a color on the color wheel then draw a triangle to find that colors secondary colors. Colors must be equally spaced so there are only 4 combinations. This creates a vibrant look to your color scheme.

Note:  If this seems like a lot to remember than you can buy a color wheel like the one I use and it does all the work for you just by dialing the wheel, so easy!

Front of wheel

Back of wheel

Finding color inspiration in your environment!

Have you seen a bouquet of flowers that you just love? It's probably because the colors blend perfectly to your eye. Maybe it's a subtle blend or vibrant contrast, either way it appeals to you. Take a picture of it and find yarn in those colors. This method works for almost anything. Before painting a room, I find fabric I love, cut a swatch and pick my paint colors from that swatch. Since I already know I like the color combination, I don't worry about liking it within my room. 

Choosing color combinations from objects and pictures you already love, pretty much insures success!

Subtle natural color combinations

Vibrant color combinations

Monochromatic colors

Is there a board above that you are particularly attracted to, then you can use that as a start for choosing color combinations for your next project. Or, better yet, make your own boards using free picture editing software. These are fun to make. How cool would it be to make a blanket using the colors from your travel photos?

Another trick, use a color board found online or make your own!

Pinterest and Google are loaded with these. Use the search term "color palettes" and you'll find beautiful images and colors selected from those images.

Below are examples that I made up from pictures I love. On the left is the picture and on the right are 3 colors chosen from that picture using an eyedropper tool within my photo editing software. This is an easy and fast way to create color combinations that work together!

Isn't it amazing how the colors just work together? When objects and landscapes are visually appealing then their color combinations are also. This is where the saying "pretty as a picture" must come from!

OK, it's time to bring this color series to its' conclusion. Thank you so much for following along with me. I hope you have learned a lot about working with color in your loom knitting and beyond. Have a great day!

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Nicole F. Cox

How To Kitchener Cast-On The Loom!

Do you want to do socks from the toe-up but not have to do a provisional cast-on? The easiest way is to do a Kitchener cast-on right on the loom. I'm not sure who was the 1st to come up with this technique but there are quite a few videos online for this cast-on. I thought I'd do a quick pictorial for those who prefer them or do not have time to watch the videos. I will not be making a video since I think there are already enough quality videos out there explaining this technique.

Pros of this cast-on: It's fairly easy to do and usually produces an almost seamless Kitchener join.

Cons of this cast-on:  It blocks the bottom of your loom particularly after pulling it closed making it hard to grip and control your loom. 

One note about this cast on, make sure you slowly and carefully tighten your loops as the yarn can become easily tangled as it's being pulled. The natural barbs on some fibers like wool, mohair, alpaca, etc. can grab and make pulling this cast on a little difficult as these fibers like to stick together (dry felt) when worked too harshly. Be gentle, work slowly and you should be fine.

Also...If the stars align, I'll have a provisional cast-on tutorial for speed loom knitters like me that do not like the bottom of their project blocked by this cast on. I grip my loom from the bottom, holding the back of my working yarn with one hand and knitting with the other. I don't work on top of the loom like I see many loom knitters. A provisional cast-on allows you to do Kitchener on live stitches using knitting needles later. There is also a way to Kitchener from the provisional cast-on without transferring to needles.

Update:  Brenda Myers has been nice enough to share that she is the developer of this cast-on. You can see what she had to say about it in the comments below this post. 

Kitchener Cast-On

Uses:  Toe-up Socks & Slippers and Finger-up Mittens, etc.

Secure the yarn on the holding peg then take it around the 1st peg on your loom.

Next, take it around the last peg on the loom, then peg 2, then the 2nd to the last peg and so on...Always going to the outside of the peg.

It should look like this when you are finished. The last peg wrapped will need to be held in front of the peg when locking it in on the next step.

Using the Regular Knit Stitch, lock in your wraps by knitting one row. You can then begin decreasing and increasing the toe of your sock. The toe is worked on one side of the loom and the heel is worked on the opposite side.

Once your sock is long enough and beginning on the side opposite the holding peg, tighten each loop one by one.

The bottom of your sock will look like this. It's almost seamless. After blocking you won't be able to see it.

This is the front, no seam!

It's as easy as that! Happy Looming...

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Nicole F. Cox

Mosaic Loom Knitting

Hello loom knitters and welcome to our color series! This is topic 5, Mosaic & skip/slip stitch colorwork.

Color is everywhere...it affects our mood, inspires us and makes us feel more creative!

Above loom knitting Patterns Can be found Here!

This is the 5th in a series of blog posts and accompanying videos, pictures discussing different methods of using color in your loom knitting. Check back for future articles or subscribe to our mailing list to be the first notified of the new posts in this series. This post is about Fair Isle loom knitting.

The series will include

(the current topic is highlighted below)

• Topic 1: Beginners! Simple Colorwork on the loom including, self-striping, variegated yarn, stripes and color changes, vertical and horizontal colorwork (post link)
• Topic 2:  How to fix the jog!
• Topic 3:  Fair Isle loom knitting
• Topic 4:  Intarsia on the loom
• Topic 5:  Mosaic & Slip Stitch Loom Knitting
• Topic 6:  Finding color inspiration
• All the topics will include pictures/video links, charts where applicable.

What is Slip/skip Stitch colorwork?

Slip/skip stitch colorwork is a technique used to make different color placement effects in knitted fabric. By skipping stitches/pegs, you can create beautiful waves, blocks, mosaics and color effects.  

How do I do a skip/slip stitch on the loom?

You take the yarn behind the peg(s), ignoring 1 or more sts/pegs. It will usually be written like this, skip1 wyib, slip1 wyib, slip1, skip1 or some variation of those. Pegs can also be skipped/slipped by placing the yarn in front of the work, adding texture, but for the purposes of todays color series we are only referring to skipping the pegs with the yarn in back of the peg. The pictures below show examples of slip/skip stitch color patterns. All the projects below were done on the loom. Video/ Skip/slip stitch on the loom

What is Mosaic colorwork?

Mosaic colorwork is a pattern created in the knitted fabric using slip/skip-stitch using 2 colors. 2 different strands of yarn are used but only 1 is knit with at a time. Two rows are worked in one color, then 2 rows are worked in the other color and so on.

Is Mosaic colorwork hard to do on the loom?

No, it is well adapted for the loom as the loom knitter never has to handle more than one color at a time. Beginners can create exciting, complex appearing designs with very little experience. If you know how to read a pattern/chart, do the knit stitch (k) and skip a peg with the yarn in back (skip1 wyib), then you are ready to do mosaics!

What are the principles of Mosaic colorwork?

• Mosaic colorwork is simple enough for a beginner! It's also faster than Fair Isle/Stranded colorwork.
• Skills needed:  Knit stitch, chart/pattern reading, skip/slip stitch with yarn in back and working with 2 colors (similar to making stripes as each color is worked separately)
• Always work with two colors. Although you can add other colors in different sections as was done in this beautiful needle knitting blanket pattern. See the Pattern!
• Work each color for two rows.
• You will work 2 identical rows for each color. Example; row 2 will be worked identically to row 1, with the same sts being skipped and the same stitches being worked. The patterning will usually change with the color change.
• Always skip or slip your stitches with the yarn in back of the peg (wyib).
• Mosaics may be worked on any number of stitches, although your patterning may be slightly off center.
• Because 2 rows are identical in mosaic knitting, the charts are usually compressed (but not always, if the designer wishes to help out beginners by showing the entire pattern) to show every other row. Each single horizontal row represents 2 rows of knitting.
• There is no stranding (locking in floats) in Mosaic colorwork. Using skip/slip sts eliminates this need. Occasionally, you will see a mosaic pattern with longer color gaps of more than 4 sts, in this case your knitting will be neater if you lock in your floats.

Are there resources for mosaic charts?

• Yes, Barbara G. Walker has an entire book dedicated to Mosaic Patterns/charts, it's awesome.  See the Book!
• Here is a cool resource for creating your own Mosaic charts Go to link! There are rules to making your own Mosaic patterns, this makes it easy.
• Detailed and interesting article on Mosaic knitting (needle knitting is not much different in colorwork except that we don't have a wrong side to our knitting) Go to Link!

How do I read a mosaic chart?

Lets walk through a couple rows of a Mosaic chart! All Mosaic charts are worked in the same manner.

Chart explanation:  Mosaic charts are different then Intarsia or Fair Isle charts. Each row counts as two rows. Row 1 is actually row 1 and 2. Rows 1 and 2 are knit in the steel color. Rows 3 and 4 (the next rows on the chart, written as just row 3) are knit in white only. Note that the chart is worked differently in the round or if flat knitting. The selvage sts are eliminated when knitting in the round.

Flat Knitting (multiple of 6 sts + 2)
Rows 1 and 2 (right to left, knitting flat):  K1, *K2, skip1 wyib, k3, repeat from * to last st, k1 (in color Steel only).
Rows 3 and 4 (left to right, knitting flat):  K1, *skip1 wyib, k5, repeat from * to last st, k1 (in color white only).
Keep working in this manner until end of chart, then repeat, changing colors every 2 rows.

In the round (multiple of 6 sts)
Rows 1 and 2 (right to left, knitting in the round):  *K2, skip1 wyib, k3, repeat from * to end of row (in color Steel).

Rows 3 and 4 (right to left, knitting in the round):  *K5, skip1 wyib, repeat from * to end of row (in color white).
Keep working in this manner until end of chart, then repeat, changing colors every 2 rows.

That's it! Mosaic and Skip/slip stitch knitting is fun and easy and gives a dramatic result. Please leave any questions you may have on this topic in the comments below and I will update the post as needed to add helpful information.

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Nicole F. Cox